Build Your Own Classic Crossbow.pdf

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It was the "hot setup" during the Crusades
.
.
.
and it's going through a new revolution today.
An archer might consider it kin to a fire-
arm
. .
a shooter, on the other hand, most
likely would think it a stock-mounted
bow.
and you wouldn't need a poll to know the
gen-
eral public's feeling: It looks sinister enough
to be a lethal weapon!
In short, there's not much doubt that the
modem crossbow suffers an "identity crisis,"
but-regardless of the mystery that still sur-
rounds this curious hybrid-it's been gaining
in popularity among hunters and targeteers
alike
. . .
and that trend hasn't gone unnoticed
here at
MOTHER.
With several avid bowhunters on the staff,
and a research department eager to take on
such an interesting challenge, it wasn't
too
difficult
to get the ball rolling on a project
that we figured might be a first in the field:
designing and building a quality crossbow
testing its range, accuracy,
from scratch
and overall effectiveness
. . .
and then com-
paring its performance to that of traditional
recurve and compound bows.
The
Classic
Crossbow:You
Can
Build
.
..
...
ABOVE: Our fieldpiece
looks-andf functions
-like many of the more expensive manufac-
tured crossbows. RIGHT:
The
front sight is
a
strap of aluminum fitted with a bead. The
steel cocking rodgives the cocking lever (BE-
LOW) a forward mount when the string is be-
ing drawn. FAR BELOW: i'2isprototype
has
no trigger safety, but one can be added.
A
QUICK
ANALYSIS
The contemporary crossbow shares little
beyond a basic design with its forebear, the
medieval arbalest. Though both launch
ar-
rows (bolts) by means of a short bow trans-
versely futed to a stock, the superiority of
modem materials-along with the improved
geometry made possible by the use of such
lightweight plastics, alloys, and composites-
has turned what was a crude but effective
weapon of war into an admirable piece of fair-
ly uncomplicated technology.
Over the past few years, crossbow design
has received considerable attention from var-
ious manufacturers, with the result that the
old standard has been modified to run the
gamut from a paramilitary-looking assault
piece to an artistic expression of classical
physics. And although these developments
represent improvement in most cases, they're
beyond the ability of all but the best-equipped
crafts people to duplicate.
We chose the path of least resistance and
used the simplest common denominators in
our design. The stock of our crossbow con-
sists of a center spine covered on each side
by a strengthening flank. As a bolted-together
unit, this flat-aluminum assembly serves as
a combination barrel (or
chase
in
crossbow ter-
minology), trigger housing, handgrip, and
shoulder extension.
'
The bow, or prod, is set into the nose of
the
forestock, and the two-piece trigger mech-
anism, cut from 114" plate steel, is pinned
be-
tween the right and left flank pieces just
below the receiver. Walnut stock inserts were
trimmed and shaped to mate with the stock
Your
Own!
-
-
on either side of the shoulder extension.
NOSE DETAIL
Since the string does contact the barrel and
is thus subject to friction, we added a pair
of shoulder slides to the sides of the chase to
reduce string wear and increase bolt veloci-
ty. Though these could also
be
made of wal-
nut, we used Delrin (a Du Pont acetal resin)
because it possesses an inherent lubricity.
Our crossbow's open sights consist simply
of a front frame made of aluminum strap, and
an alloy rear ring mounted to the receiver,
Socket-head cap screws threaded into each of
these brackets provide sighting beads, and the
rear unit can be lowered or raised as neces-
sary to zero the piece in at a specific range.
As far as we've been able to determine, a
telescopic rifle sight is inappropriate on a
crossbow for three reasons. First, the weap-
114' $1'
x
1-114'
on's effective range is limited to 50 yards or
ALUMINUM
PROD
BLCXX
so in all but an expert's hands, and at that
distance, beads and the practiced naked eye
The takedown version
is
either a pistol
or
a
lot~g
arm.
should be sufficient. Second, a fired bolt's
TRIGGER AND
SAFRY
DETAIL
trajectory is such that, beyond 15 or more
NO
632
X 1-1R'
SOW(ET+lEAD
025'
X
318'
X
3'
yards, its drop is enough to lower the point
CAP
SCREW SIGHTING
POST
SPRINGSTEELTANG
of impact many inches from the line of sight
(see sidebar)
.
.
.
and since most scopes are
calibrated for rifles, the range of adjustment
may be restrictive or the zeroing-in process
tedious. Finally, a scope narrows the field of
view and adds weight as well.
You've probably already noticed that our
photos show two different crossbows. The
/
first, detailed in this article,
is
a functional,
no-gadget rendition that's not overly compli-
cated to assemble, which should serve as a
fine fieldpiece or target piece. The second is
a multiuse version that has some interesting
features, but for the most part it's best suit-
ed to range shooting or backyard "plinking."
It sports a folding front handgrip, a remov-
(3)
In'
X
3 4 '
EXPANSION PINS
able shoulder stock extension (which allows
lySrl'
STEEL
TRIGGER
the long arm to convert to a hand piece), and
-no doubt the most practical feature of all-a
'5i32'
X 1
'
COMPRESSION
SPRING
positive trigger safety. (This last item, by the
(10)
NO. 6
X
314'
W I N E
SCREWS
way, can be added to our standard crossbow
if desired.)
-
NOTE: Though we did build and
test both of our crossbows, the
po-
tential for injury from any weapon
is enough to compel us lo say that
whoever builds and uses this tool
does so at his or her own risk.
,
PIECE BY PIECE
You might
be
interested to know that we
spent about $102 making our fieldpiece; that
breaks down to approximately $14 worth of
114"
aluminum flat stock (available at a scrap-
yard or a metals distributor);
$8
in Delrin;
$6 for the walnut billets; about
$7
in assort-
ed bolts, pins, and other minor hardware;
and-here's the kicker-$67 worth of prod
and Dacron bowstring.
Admittedly, it would have been nice if we'd
been able to construct our own short bow by
using common materials
.
and believe us,
(continued on next page)
COCKINQ LEVER
(3)
114'
X
314'
MACHINE
BOLTS
2)
118'
X
1
'
X
24'
FLAT-STEEL
HANDLES
..
\(2)
114' X 1
'
MACHINE
BOLTS
.
l l B '
X
1
'
X
5112'
FLATSTEEL
COLLAR
he
Crossbow:
Fact
and
Fiction
Just how effective is a crossbow? To an-
swer that question, several of MOTHER'S
staffers took to the field with our project pro-
totype equipped with a 175-pound prod
. .
.
the smaller takedown model with a 75-pound
draw weight.
. .
a $449 Bamett Comman-
do (a quality commercial crossbow) rated at
175 pounds
.
. .
a recurve bow rated at 54
pounds, full (30") draw.
. .
and a 7Gpound
compound bow. We were interested in each
weapon's range, accuracy, and penetrating
power.
.
.
but, ultimately,
we
were search-
ing for the crossbow's proper niche in the or-
der of things.
Now we weren't interested in testing head-
to-head with the Barnett offering, and we
couldn
't
fairly pit a hand-held bow against
a brace-mounted crossbow. So what we did
was make a series of test firings with our
standard model at distances of 10, 20, 30,
.
- . .
40, and 50 measured yardr. Each group con-
sisted of five shots with the same 24.94-gram
overall (126.3-grainfield point) Easton 14"
aluminum bolt, and the resulting patterns
then were measured and recorded. The cross-
bow was mounted and leveled in a sturdy
brace, and a surueyor's transit was used to
establish a direct line of sight to a given point
on the target. The deviation of the points of
impact from the sighting point was also
noted. Wind conditions were fairly calm
throughout the test.
The chart below encapsulates our findings.
As you can see, the homemade crossbow held
a respectable pattern, even out to 50 yards.
(We suspect it would
do
the same beyond that
point, but thar's considered expert's range.)
A t that distance, drop was considerable (i.e.,
the weapon's barrel would have to be elevat-
ed in order to hit a target in a level line of
sight)
.
but the same situation existed in
thecaseofthe more traditionalhand-heldbows.
Penetration was never a problem with any
of the weapons we tested, since
all
the shafts
buried themselves-some
to
the fletching-
in the 12" of extruded polystyrene we used
for a target backing. Considering the differ-
ence in draw weights between the tradition-
al bows and the crossbows (and accounting
for the standard arrows' additional mass),
we could infer that prod strengths of more
than 125pounds amount to overkill; the ex-
tra power probably offers little, but taxes
strings, bolts, and cocking convenience heav-
ily.
Howmer, an understrength prod would
be
even less desirable unless
it
was matched
with a short, lkht bolt. Our takedown ~ i s t o l
model uses %-pound prod and a 6;' alu-
minum bolt, and has a power stroke of
6-1/4" compared to the larger weapon's
8-1/2".
.
fine for target shooting, but not
really useful for hunting.
Regardless of draw weight, string life can
be extended and bolt velocity increased slight-
ly by applying a lubniative wax to the string
and the barrel's shoulder slides.
In summary, much as we hate to burst a
romantic balloon, we'll have to concede to the
facts: Although a crossbow has the advan-
tages of compactness and mechanical cock-
ing and locking (it can be held at full draw
without strain on the user),
it
is really no
more accurate than a conventional bow in
proficient
hands
.
. .
can't
be
loaded
and fired
as quickly
.
.
and doesn't even
approach
the overall effectiveness of a rifle. Nonethe-
less, it's a valid sporting tool that's slowly
but surely coming into its own once again.
(continued from preceding page)
we tried! But the laminated fiberglass prods
we laid up just didn't have adequate draw
strength or the resiliency to stand up to re-
peated use, possibly because we weren't able
to duplicate the heat-and-pressure curing
process used by commercial manufacturers.
At any rate, we were pleased to learn that
Barnett International
(1967
Gunn
Hwy.,
P.O.
Box
934,
Odessa,
FL
33556)
will sell prods,
strings, bolts, and other accessories to any-
one who orders the company's
$2.00
postpaid
catalog.
T o ease construction, we've outlined the
crossbow's major pans and drilling points
within a grid, which will allow you to make
up-scaled templates for the metal pieces. But
play it safe by matching the templates per-
fectly
before
taping them to the metal and
scribing theit outline
. . .
and be even more
carehl when actually cutting the aluminum
I
stock, since
[I]
the pieces must join closely,
or you'll be spending a lot of time with the
FIELD TEST RESULTS
OVERALL LENGTH: 31"
file, and
[2]
the center spine's weak spot-
MODEL TESTED: Homemade, aluminum frame;
OVERALL WIDTH: 26"
the trigger guard-should not
be
any
thinner
walnut inserts; Delrin shoulder slides
POWER STROKE: 8112"
than
7/32".
PROD: Barnett Commando, heatlpressurecured
SIGHTS: Open, adjustable rear post
The best way to trim the parts accurately,
fiberglass, 175-pounddraw
BOLT: Easton,
14"
aluminum, 24.94 grams overall
by the way, is to use a band saw equipped
WEIGHT:
6
pounds, 5-112 ounces
including 126.3-grain fieldpoint
with a metal-cutting blade. Because the
smooth operation of the trigger and string
AVERAGE
catch depends in great measure upon the per-
AVERAGE
WINDAGE
fect alignment of the three stock components,
RANGE
DROP
ERROR
PATTERN
NOTES
we suggest that you postpone drilling the
10 yds.
+I'
full penetration
314'
flank pieces until you've bored the
9/64"
post
'14
yds.
0
rsm
trajectory point
holes according to the center points indicat-
20 yds.
11.114'
tight pattern
5'
30
yds.
30"
9.iM'
ed on the template. Once those sockets are
bolt wobble
t30
yd8.
21.112"
8'
Its8 bolt wobble
complete, clamp the aluminum center spine
40
yds.
50.314'
6.314'
pattern improved
to one of the flanks and recheck the align-
50
yds.
83'
6'
more
pattern Improvemen(;
ment, using the template cutout from the trig-
rxcellmt penetration
ger housing. Then drill corresponding holes
Zero trajectory point
t
Barnett Commando comparison
in
the one flank piece.
q
.
.
..
--
With that done, use No.
6
X
314"
machine
screws as temporary locating pins for the two
bored components, and clamp the second
flank piece in place. When you're satisfied
that all three parts are evenly mated, drill the
final member. Since the post screws are re-
cessed, you'll need to countersink the exteri-
or openings with larger bits according to the
design ofthe screws and nuts you've chosen.
The steel trigger components have to be
thinned by 1164" in order to allow them free-
dom of movement within the stock. Once this
is done, those parts can be drilled where in-
dicated with a 118" bit, and the 1/8"
X
314"
expansidn pin pivots can be pressed in and
centered. The pivot pins ride in 9/64" sock-
ets drilled into the right and left flank pieces;
to be on the safe side, you might want to use
the trigger-housing template cutout to posi-
tion those openings accurately.
As we mentioned before, you can install a
trigger safety mechanism according to our de-
tail. Both the trigger and the safety catch are
returned by small compression springs set in-
to slots c i t through the central spine.
Before assembling the stock for good, you'll
want to bevel the inner surfaces of the bar-
rel, and round the entire frame's outer edges.
The rough work can
be
done with a grinder
or file, and rhe metal then can be smoothed
with emery cloth. Save the final extra-fine
polishing for later, after you've bolted and
pinned everything together and completed the
cosmetic work.
The next portion of the project includes set-
ting the bolt tang (the spring-steel leaf that
holds the projectile snug against the barrel),
adding the wooden (or Delrin) slides to the
flanks, and cutting, shaping, and fastening the
walnut inserts that dress the shoulder exten-
sion. (These pieces can be cut to shape using
the template as a guide, then rounded with
a sander and bolted or glued to the aluminum
spine prior to being finished with varnish or
tung oil.)
The front sight is a piece of
1116"
X
518"
X
6-112" strap aluminum bent into an open
frame configuration so the bolt can pass
through it. It's fastened to the top of the fore-
stock with two No. 6
X
1/4" machine screws,
and a short cap screw locked through its
crown serves as a bead. Though we used a
machined ring at the rear (to provide a hous-
ing for an experimental scope sight), you can
make an excellent sighting post by simply
drilling and tapping a hole at the top of the
receiver to accept a
6-32
socket-head cap
screw about 1-112" in length. This can then
be adjusted up or down for sighting.
We ordered a prod with a draw strength
of 175 pounds
. . .
but even if you choose a
lighter bow to lengthen string life, you'll
probably need a cocking lever to pull it into
position. You can make one by bending four
sections of 118" X
1"
flat metal to create a
two-armed, bolt-together yoke that uses
mechanical advantage to ease cocking (see il-
lustration).
A
pair of slots in the stationary
part of the lever hook into a 5116"
X
3"
steel
rod fitted into rhe crossbow's forestock (this
should
be
located as indicated on the template
and pressed in place before you install the
prod), and another set of slots cut into the
short "jack zrms" catch the string. The ful-
crum's just a movable collar that can be
locked into the optimal position.
The prod is held in place by a 114"
X
1"
X
1-114" block of aluminum famd with
a
strip
of hard rubber.
A
similar pad, glued to the
rear of the prod socket, provides additional
cushioning, and the metal block is forced
tightly against the bow's face by a 114" X
1-314'' cap screw threaded into a tapped hole
at the nose of the stock.
Once the prod's installed, you'll have the
pleasure of stringing it. Unless you're extraor-
dinarily muscular, we'd suggest you purchase
what's called a
bastard
string along with the
regular Dacron cable. This set of strands is
longer than the service string and thus can
be
slipped onto the prod more easily. It's then
used to draw the bow's ears back to the cocked
position so the real string can be looped in
place. When that's done, both strings can be
released with the trigger and the bastard re-
moved. This is the
only
situation in which
the crossbow should
be
"dry fired," since that
practice car! split the prod.
It should be quite obvious that your fin-
ished project has a lethal potential and should
be handled with the same caution that you'd
give to any longbow or firearm. Don't load
it until you're ready to fire it, and don't fire
it without an adequate field behind your tar-
get to safely absorb any overshots. Too, if
you're interested in exploring the crossbow's
capabilities for hunting, check your state's
game laws before you build
. .
.
it could save
a lot of
disappointment
later. Meanwhile,
you might want to look over the sidebar ac-
companying this article to see what kind of
results you could expect from your modern-
day arbalest!
EDITOR'S NOTE:
I f
you're intaesred in
making the croshaofearured here (or the smaller
rakedown version) bur would prefer detailed,
step-by-step insrrucrionh
a
set of building
plans-complete wirh full-size curring te7nplates
-is available at a cost of
$10
plus
$1.00
for
shipping and handling from Mother's Plans,
Crossbows,
P.O.
Box
A,
East
Flat
Rock,
NC
28726.8
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