Trek & Mountain - October 2016.pdf

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ISSUE 75
•
w
a s tor
o
OCTOBER 2016
•
£4.25
•
Sa
Use your feet on rock
Get into aid climbing
Take better photos
SVALBARD:
SEA, SKI &
SUMMITS
PLUS
Matt Helliker
interview
Infinite Spur
expedition report
Commando Ridge
route guide
and more
Exploring the ‘realm
of the polar bear’ by
foot, ski and boat
PACK IT UP!
12
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10
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Editorial
Camel’s Hump,
Vermont, USA
Address:
Trek & Mountain Ltd,
Rangefield Court, Farnham Trading
Estate, Farnham, Surrey GU9 9NP
Tel:
0117 230 6085 (Editorial and
Advertising), 01202 586 848
(Subscriptions)
Email:
info@trekandmountain.com
Web:
www.trekandmountain.com
THE TEAM
Editor/Publisher
Chris Kempster
(chris@trekandmountain.com)
Art Editor
Kevin Lowery
(kev@trekandmountain.com)
Sub Editor
Amanda Travis
(amanda@trekandmountain.com)
Contributing Editor
(Ski Touring & Mountain Running)
Sophie Nicholson
(sophie@trekandmountain.com)
Technical Editor
Alun Richardson
(alun@trekandmountain.com)
CONTRIBUTORS
Editorial:
Dan Aspel, Rachel Botterell,
Ariel Gache, Bruce Goodlad, Will
Harris, Pete Hill, Tybalt Peake, Charley
Ratcliffe, Alun Richardson, Paul Smith
Photography:
John Baker, Adrian
Ballinger, Pete Benson, Jon Bracey,
Pete Graham, Bruce Goodlad, Will
Harris, Pete Hill, Martin Moran, Andy
Perkins, Ben Read, Alun Richardson,
Ben Silvestre, Paul Smith, Amanda
Travis, Cat Vinton
Cover image:
Vega Expeditions
Printed by:
Stephens & George
Distributed by:
Comag Specialist
Licensing enquiries:
licensing@trekandmountain.com
Welcome...
to our October issue, in which we travel to Alaska, Svalbard, the Alps and Cornwall!
F
THANKS TO:
Vega Expeditions, Alice Douglas
VISIT US ONLINE
Website:
Twitter:
www.trekandmountain.com
@trekandmountain
Facebook:
Youtube:
or many of us the outdoors is a place
where we can enjoy some freedom,
space and solitude, and nowhere
delivers that more than the Arctic.
Young adventurer Tybalt Peake appreciates
that more than most 15 (or even 40) year
olds, and in this issue he tells us the absorbing
story of his recent skiing and mountaineering
trip to Svalbard (p28). It’s a bittersweet story,
however, as he acknowledges that places like
these are on the brink of changing forever.
Elsewhere in the issue we have a cracking
day out by the sea in Cornwall (p20), an
insightful interview with one of the most
dedicated alpinists around, Matt Helliker
(p60), and a thrilling account of the first
British ascent of the Infinite Spur on Mt
Foraker in Alaska by Will Harris (p66). We
also kick off a new series on improving your
mountain photos (p52) and test out the best
technical rucksacks on the market (p78).
Until next time, enjoy the issue!
Chris Kempster
Editor
Email me at: chris@trekandmountain.com
trekandmountain
www.youtube.com/
trekandmountain
Copyright 2016 Trek&Mountain. While
every effort is made to ensure the advice
and information printed in this publication
is accurate, the publishers cannot be held
liable for any damage of any nature arising
from the information printed or by the
activities undertaken by readers.
THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS
Our expert writers this month include...
SUBSCRIPTIONS
SUBSCRIBE ONLINE AT:
www.trekandmountain.com/subs
PHONE:
01202 586 848
EMAIL:
subs@trekandmountain.
com
POST:
Trek & Mountain
Subscriptions, Select Publisher
Services Ltd, PO Box 6337,
Bournemouth BH1 9EH
ALUN RICHARDSON
A British Mountain Guide, Alun
has led treks and expeditions
around the world for the last 30
years, and is also the author of
the highly-regarded Rucksack
Guides published by A&C Black.
DAN ASPEL
An outdoor journalist and
qualified Mountain Leader, Dan
enjoys scrambling in the Lakes
and North Wales in summer
and mountaineering in
Scotland in the winter.
TYBALT PEAKE
Hailing from Capel Curig, North
Wales, Tybalt is a free skier, rock
climber and mountaineer, and
the youngest British person to
have sailed the infamous North
West Passage.
WILL HARRIS
Will is a Chamonix-based
alpinist whose expeditions
include Patagonia, Alaska,
Nepal and more. Currently on
the Guides scheme, Will ‘feeds
the rat’ as much as he can!
OCTOBER 2016
T&M 3
October
2016
20
66
28
Realm
of the
POLAR
BEAR
Features
20
Commando Ridge
28
Svalbard
Expedition reports, route guides, interviews and topical features
Alun Richardson
heads to St Ives in Cornwall
to revisit a classic rock climbing route used by
the military for training in World War 2
Dan Aspel
chats to the British alpinist who
takes dedication to his profession to the
ultimate level
60
Matt Helliker
60
Tybalt Peake
reports on an
expedition he joined earlier this year to
explore the Norwegian Arctic playground of
Svalbard – by ski, by foot and by boat
Will Harris
recounts his 2016 expedition to
Alaska during which he, Pete Graham and Ben
Silvestre made the rst British ascent of Mt
Foraker’s In nite Spur
66
Infinite Spur
WIN!
A SET
OF ARC’TERYX
SATORO
BASELAYERS
SKILLS & ADVICE
Expert advice and instruction from T&M’s mountain professionals
44
46
52
44
Knowledge:
Mastering footholds
A look at some of the essential footholds for
climbing and scrambling on rock
Chamonix, where we attended courses on
alpinism, ice climbing and big wall climbing
58
4
OCTOBER 2016
46
Training Days:
Arc’teryx Alpine Academy
We report from this year’s Alpine Academy in
Pro photographer
Alun Richardson
presents a
new series aimed at helping you take better
images in the mountains
52
Masterclass:
Taking better
outdoor photos
Gear
SAVE 20% +
RECEIVE A FREE
CICERONE GUIDE
WORTH £18
WHEN YOU
SUBSCRIBE!
P40
76
The latest reviews and product tests
76
Key Product:
Haglöfs
Spitz Jacket
This autumn Haglöfs have reintroduced their
legendary Spitz Jacket, and we took it to Mt
Washington in New Hampshire to test its bad
weather credentials
86
Preview:
Berghaus Hyper
100 Jacket
Early impressions of what has been billed as
the world’s lightest 3-layer waterproof jacket
78
Group Test:
Technical
Packs
Need a pack for climbing, scrambling or
mountaineering? We test out 12 of the leading
models on the market to see which ts the
bill the best
86
Preview:
Mountain
Hardwear Scrambler RT20
OutDry
Preview of a new rolltop and waterproof
daysack that’ll be available next spring
78
86
REGULARS
7
Breaking Trail
Our action-packed front section, including
Expedition News
(p12),
Book of the
Month
(p12),
Talks & Events
(p14),
Gadget of the Month
(p14)
News, opinion, subscription offers and more
10
12
Missed an issue of
Trek & Mountain?
Complete
your collection here...
88
Back issues
89
Next month
40
Subscribe
Receive Cicerone’s
‘Trekking In The Alps’
book worth £18 when you subscribe!
Can’t wait for next month’s issue? Here’s a
sneak preview
of what you can expect in
the October edition...
9
42
Trek Directory
Looking to join a trek or expedition in 2017?
Visit our directory of the
leading trekking
and expedition companies
for inspiration
Some days in the mountains just stick in the
memory forever –
Michael Bottom
tells us
about one such day he experienced while
climbing Peak Lenin
90
#dayslikethese
88
Back issues and digital editions
OCTOBER 2016
5

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