hungary-5-southern-transdanubia.pdf

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279
Southern
Transdanubia
With its mild climate, gently undulating hills, minimal industry and rural ambience, Southern
Transdanubia is a region of calm, a place to enjoy life at a slow, almost Mediterranean, pace.
Aside from a few centres, it’s only marginally touched by tourism, and could be just the
answer for those looking to get off the beaten track in a country that’s been crisscrossed
by travellers since time immemorial.
The region is thickly settled with villages, and agriculture is still the mainstay of most
people’s lives: fruit orchards dot the landscape in the north, almond trees surround Pécs in
its heart and vineyards stretch for miles around Szekszárd and Villány-Siklós in its easterly
reaches. Late summer/early autumn, when harvesting is in full swing, is a gorgeous time
of year in these parts.
Easily the highlight of the region – and arguably all of provincial Hungary – is Pécs,
Southern Transdanubia’s capital city. Art museums and theatres abound, and history is also
alive and well within its borders. Both the Romans and Turks thought much of the place, leav-
ing their mark for all to gape at; more Roman tombs than you can shake an archaeologist’s
shovel at have been uncovered near (or under) the city’s Basilica, and a handful of Turkish
monuments have survived in a country where almost all were put to the torch.
While Pécs steals the limelight, a number of other towns are worth visiting. Imposing
castles dominate Siklós and Szigetvár, and in Harkány you can take advantage of curative
thermal waters (which we know is a hard task). And any excursion to the south would be in-
complete without a glass of some of the country’s best wines from Szekszárd and Villány.
SOUTHERN
TRANSDANUBIA
HIGHLIGHTS
Wandering the picturesque streets from
one impressive sight to the next in
Pécs
(p294)
Sampling and – of course – buying the big,
bold reds of
Villány
(p292) and
Szekszárd
(p280)
Exploring the rural
Ormánság region
(p293), Southern Transdanubia’s quiet
‘back corner’
Riding the
narrow-gauge train
(p284)
through the Gemenc Forest in the Sárköz
region
Taking a dip in the cure-all
thermal baths
(p291) at Harkány, especially in winter
Ormánság
Region
Gemenc
Forest
Szekszárd
Pécs
Harkány
Villány
280
S O U T H E R N T R A N S D A N U B I A • • S z e k s z á r d
SOUTHERN
TRANSDANUBIA
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SOUTHERN TRANSDANUBIA
Sümeg
VESZPRÉM
0
0
M7
50 km
30 miles
M6
To Veszprém
(4km)
To Budapest
(68km)
ZALA
Balaton-
Uplands
Tapolca
National Park
Dunaújváros
Tihany
FEJÉR
M7
Siófok
65
Sárbogárd
Zalaegerszeg
Keszthely
75
74
L
e
ak
Ba
la
n
to
E71
Tab
Balatonlelle
Simontornya
61
Dunaföldvár
E65
Balatonberény
Fonyód
Balaton-
Uplands
Balatonszentgyörgy
National Park
67
Andocs
Zalakaros
E71
M7
68
Tamási
TOLNA
63
Marcali
Paks
6
51
BÁCS-
KISKUN
Danube
E661
Letenye
Kalocsa
Sió
Nagykanizsa
Mur
61
65
a
R
i
Kaposvár
Szenna
Nagyatád
Taszár
Dombóvár
61
Gyékényes
Csurgó
Vara™din
Ri
67
ver
Bélavár
Vízvár
E661
68
Abaliget
Szigetvár
6
Szentlªrinc
Me
c
s
e
PÉCS
57
56
51
Barcs
BARANYA
58
E73
Mohács
Bjelovar
CROATIA
Virovitica
E661
Palkonya
Máriagy¬d
Vil
Sellye
l
án
Villánykövesd
y
Hi
Kórós
lls
Villány
Drávaiványi Vajszló
Nagyharsány
Ormánság
Harkány Siklós
Region
Dráv
R
SERBIA &
MONTENEGRO
Sombor
a
iver
History
Southern Transdanubia was settled by
the Celts and then by the Romans, who
established important towns at Alisca
(Szekszárd) and Sophianae (Pécs) and in-
troduced grape-growing. The north–south
trade route passed through here and many
of the settlements prospered during the
Middle Ages.
As the focal point of the Turkish occu-
pation, Southern Transdanubia was very
hard hit. The battle that led to the Ottoman
Turks domination of Hungary for more
than a century and a half was fought at
Mohács on 29 August 1526, and one of
the most heroic stands taken by the Hun-
garians against the invaders took place in
the quiet town of Szigetvár some 40 years
later.
Late in the 17th century, the abandoned
towns of Southern Transdanubia were re-
settled by immigrant Swabian Germans and
Southern Slavs, and at the end of WWII
ethnic Hungarians came from Slovakia
and Bukovina in Romania as did Saxon
Germans.
SZEKSZÁRD
%
74 / pop 36,200
The more-than-attractive town of Szek-
szárd lies south of the Sió River, which
links Lake Balaton with the Danube River,
among seven of the Szekszárd Hills. It is
the capital of Tolna County and the centre
of the Sárköz folk region, but more than
anything else Szekszárd is the gateway to
Southern Transdanubia. In fact, you can see
the Sárköz region start in the town’s main
square (Garay tér), where the Great Plain,
having crossed the Danube, rises slowly,
transforming into the Szekszárd Hills.
History
Szekszárd was a Celtic and later a Roman
settlement called Alisca. The sixth Hungar-
ian king, Béla I, conferred royal status on
the town and founded an important Bene-
dictine abbey here in 1061.
The Turkish occupation decimated Szek-
szárd; however, the area was repopulated late
in the 17th century by Swabian Germans,
and the cultivation of wheat and viticulture
in the 18th century revitalised the economy.
G
r
e
a
t
Zselic
Region
Tolna
Sárköz Region
Bárányfok
M9
Szekszárd
Kesely¬s
Bonyhád
Szekszárd
Öcsény
Gemenc
Hills
Decs
Forest
Sásd
Zengª
Komló
(682m)
6
Baja
55
Bátaszék
Pörböly
Pécsvárad
s
ll
Danube-Dráva
i
Orf¬
National Park
k
H
P
l
a
i
n
SOMOGY
61
Ri
E73
River
v
er
v
e
r
á
Dr
va
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S O U T H E R N T R A N S D A N U B I A • • S z e k s z á r d
281
SOUTHERN
TRANSDANUBIA
Orientation
The bus and train stations are opposite one
another on Pollack Mihály utca. From here,
follow pedestrian Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca
west through the park to the town centre.
Garay tér ascends to the old castle district,
today’s Béla tér. Munkácsy Mihály utca
runs southwest from Béla tér to Kálvária
utca and Calvary Hill.
hall the
Eszter Mattioni Gallery,
whose works
in striking mosaics of marble, glass and
mother-of-pearl invoke peasant themes with
a twist. The square’s yellow baroque
Inner City
Catholic Church
(Belvárosi templom; 1805), is
the largest single-nave church in Hungary.
Franz Liszt performed several times at the
pink neo-Gothic
Augusz House
(Széchenyi utca 36-
40)
; today it houses a music school.
MUSEUMS
Information
Main post office
(Széchenyi utca 11-13)
OTP bank
(Szent István tér 5-7) With ATM.
Tourinform
(
%
511 263; szekszard@tourinform.hu;
Garay tér 18;
h
9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun
Jun-Aug; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-May) The straight-faced
but helpful staff have loads of information on the town
and Tolna County.
Szekszárd produced two of Hungary’s most
celebrated poets: Mihály Babits (1883–1941)
and the lesser-known János Garay (1812–53).
The
Mihály Babits’ Birthplace
(szülőháza;
%
312
154; Babits Mihály utca 13;
h
9am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep,
9am-3pm Tue-Sat Oct-Mar)
has been turned in-
Sights
All museums and exhibitions cost 200/100Ft
per adult/child and are free on Saturdays.
You can get a good idea of Szekszárd
by following Kálvária utca from just south
of the catholic church and up the grassy
steps to
Kálvária-hegy
(Calvary Hill; 205m).
The hill’s name recalls the Crucifixion, and
there is an 18th-century chapel erected
here by grief-stricken parents who lost
their child (still remembered thanks to a fa-
mous poem by Mihály Babits, a native son
of Szekszárd). The Danube and the Great
Plain are visible to the east, the Sárköz re-
gion beyond the hills to the south and the
Szekszárd Hills to the west; on a clear day,
you can just see Hungary’s sole nuclear
power station at Paks, 30km to the north.
The little village – the so-called Upper
Town (Felsőváros) – in the valley to the
northwest is full of vineyards and private
cellars. Walk along Bartina utca, which be-
comes Remete utca, to
Remete Chapel
(Rem-
ete kápolna; 1778), an important pilgrimage
site; return via Bocskai utca to the north of
Szekszárd Stream.
NOTABLE BUILDINGS
to a memorial museum. Although the poet’s
avant-garde, deeply philosophical verse may
be obscure, even in Hungarian, it’s a good
place to see how a middle-class family lived
in 19th-century provincial Hungary.
The
Mór Wosinszky Museum
(
%
316 222; Szent
István tér 26;
h
10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm
Tue-Sun Oct-Mar)
was purpose-built in 1895. It
The neoclassical
county hall
(vármegyeháza;
%
419
667; Béla tér 1;
h
9am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 9am-3pm
Tue-Sun Oct-Mar)
, designed by Mihály Pollack
in 1828, sits on the site of Béla’s abbey and
an earlier Christian chapel; you can see the
excavated foundations in the central court-
yard. On the upper floor of the building,
there is the
Franz Liszt Exhibition
and across the
is now named after a local priest and ar-
chaeologist who discovered the remains of a
Neo-lithic culture in the town of Lengyel to
the northwest. The finds, objects left by vari-
ous peoples who passed through the Danube
Basin ahead of the Magyars, are among the
best anywhere (don’t miss the fine Celtic and
Avar jewellery), as is the large folk collection of
Serbian, Swabian and Sárköz artefacts. Three
period rooms – that of a well-to-do Sárköz
farming family, another from the estate of the
aristocratic Apponyi family of Lengyel and a
poor gooseherd’s hut – illustrate very clearly
the different economic brackets that existed
side by side in the region a century ago.
The Middle Eastern flourishes of the
House
of Arts
(Művészetek Háza;
%
511 247; Szent István tér 28;
h
10am-6pm Tue-Fri)
, behind the museum, re-
veal its former life as a synagogue. It is now
used as a gallery and concert hall. Four of its
original iron pillars have been placed out-
side and enclosed in an arch, suggesting the
tablets of the 10 Commandments. A short
distance south of the museum is a striking
‘tree of life’ monument to ‘Szekszárd’s her-
oes and victims of WWII’.
Activities
Try the covered
thermal baths
and
outdoor
pools
(
%
412 035; Toldi utca 6; adult/child 500/250Ft;
282
S O U T H E R N T R A N S D A N U B I A • • S z e k s z á r d
SOUTHERN
TRANSDANUBIA
www.lonelyplanet.com
SZEKSZÁRD
A
INFORMATION
Main Post Office................................
1
B2
OTP Bank...........................................
2
B3
Tourinform.........................................
3
B3
0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
B
To New City Church (300m)
C
Damjanich u
D
1
15
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Augusz House....................................
4
B3
County Hall........................................
5
B3
Eszter Mattioni Gallery.....................(see 5)
Franz Liszt Exhibition........................(see 5)
Garay Pince........................................
6
B3
House of Arts.....................................
7
C3
Inner City Catholic Church.................
8
A3
Mihály Babits' Birthplace....................
9
A2
Mór Wosinszky Museum..................
10
C3
Thermal Baths & Outdoor Pools.......
11
D3
Rákócz
i
u
Bella Napoli....................................(see 13)
Fªispán............................................. B2
16
Market.............................................
17
B3
Tiffany...........................................(see 15)
DRINKING
Incognito..........................................
18
B3
Piccolo Drink Bar..............................
19
A2
Szász................................................
20
B3
ENTERTAINMENT
Deutsche Bühne................................ B3
21
Mátyás király u
Mihály Babits Cultural Centre...........
22
C3
'Szexard' Polip Youth Office.............
23
C3
TRANSPORT
Bus Station.......................................
24
D3
Bus Stop...........................................
25
C3
Bus Stop...........................................
26
C3
Pollack Mihály u
Ne
e
fel
jcs
kö
z
13
19
2
Mér
ey u
9
Flóriá
n
ksz
Sze
árd
am
Stre
u
nt L
Sze
u
ás
z
ló
SLEEPING
Szekszárd Stream
Gemenc...........................................
12
C3
Zodiaco............................................
13
A2
EATING
Amaretto..........................................
14
B3
Arany Kulacs....................................
15
A2
Fürdª
ház u
Ba
Mih bits
ály
u
1
Vár köz
Széchenyi u
To Remete
Chapel (3km)
Upper
Town
6
20
Garay
3
tér
18
4
22
Mészáros Lázár u
au
Bartin
8
Béla
tér
16
5
17
Piac tér
23
7
Szent
István tér
Szent Is
10
tván té
r
11
Toldi u
Bajcsy-Z
y
silinszk
u
24
Train
Station
Vár köz
12
3
Ká
lv
a
ári
u
Bez
eré
25
2
Arany János u
14 21
y
kács
Mun ály u
Mih
26
Hunyad
iu
To Calvary
Hill (150m)
To Mohács
(48km)
To Öcsény (4km);
Decs (8km); Gemenc
Forest (12km)
Kesely¬
si út
h
baths 2-8pm Mon, 6am-8pm Tue-Sun year-round, pools
9am-6pm mid-May–Aug)
, near the train and bus
stations.
There are several places dotted around
Szekszárd where you can sample the local
vintage. One of the best venues is the
Garay
Pince
(
%
412 828; Garay tér 19;
h
10am-5pm Mon-Thu,
9am-6pm Fri & Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
, with some of
Szekszárd’s best wines for tasting and pur-
chasing. Tourinform has a full list of wine
cellars in town and a Wine Road Map of the
surrounding area.
dj u
Festivals & Events
Among the big events staged annually in
Szekszárd are the
Feast of Szekszárd Stew and
Wine
in late June, the
International Danube Folk-
lore Festival
jointly sponsored with Kalocsa
and Baja in mid-July, and the
Szekszárd Wine
Days
in late September.
books, which are usually in the high-rise
blocks near the cultural centre.
Zodiaco
(
%
511 150; www.hotelzodiaco.hu; Szent
László utca 19; s/d 9700/13,100Ft)
There are no
prizes for guessing that this hotel sports
an astrological theme. It’s by far the best
place in town, with large, modern 2nd-
floor rooms ‘parading’ themselves around
an inner courtyard.
Gemenc
(
%
311 722; Mészáros Lázár utca 1; s 5550-
7700Ft, d 7500-10,700Ft;
p
)
This may be an ugly
hotel, but it’s centrally located and has all
the usual amenities – restaurant, coffee
shop, nightclub etc. More expensive rooms
come with mini-bar.
Eating
Arany Kulacs
(
%
413 369; Nefelejcs köz 7; mains
1500Ft)
For fine dining and even finer wine,
head for the ‘Golden Flask’. Once there,
choose from picnic tables on a fairly barren
terrace (with partial views of the town) or
the cellar-like surroundings inside.
Tiffany
(
%
311 079; Nefelejcs köz 3-5; mains 1000-
1500Ft)
Next door to Arany Kulacs is this
small place, with an even smaller terrace.
Sleeping
For a town with such a pleasant atmos-
phere, Szekszárd has a surprising lack of
accommodation. Tourinform has a few pri-
vate rooms (from 3000Ft per person), on its

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