AmericanWoodworker-ProjectOfTheMonth-HoosierCabinet.pdf

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American Woodworker: Project of the Month: Hoosier Cabinet
By Tim Johnson
Recreate an American icon.
Eighty years ago, before built-in cabinets
were common, every modern homemaker
wanted a “Hoosier” cabinet in her
kitchen. As a baking center, it was the
last word in efficient design and
convenience, packed with labor-and time-
saving features. Millions of Hoosiers,
almost all manufactured by companies in
Indiana, were sold before styles changed
and built-in kitchen cabinets became the
rage in the 1940s.
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American Woodworker: Project of the Month: Hoosier Cabinet
Why not put a Hoosier in your kitchen?
Use it as a bread making center, a coffee
bar, or to store dishes and linens or pots
and pans. It’s still perfectly suited to
today’s modern kitchens.
This Hoosier is loaded with useful
features. The center section slides in and
out to maximize the usefulness of the
porcelain enamel work surface. Two
drawers are mounted under the work
surface and slide with it, so their contents
are always within reach. A tambour door
provides access to the cabinet without the
nuisance of swinging doors.
Although it’s a big project with many
pieces, this Hoosier cabinet is not hard to
build. It’s made from dimensional 3/4-in.-
thick wood. The cabinet joinery is
simple, using dadoes, dowels and rabbets.
The doors and cabinet sides are made
with routed stiles and rails. The drawers
are done on the tablesaw, and both the
drawers and doors overlay the openings,
so fitting them is a breeze. All the
hardware surface mounts and you can
buy the tambour ready to install!
Next Page
Hoosier Cabinet
•
Getting Started
•
The Lower Cabinet
The Upper Cabinet
•
Finish The Lower Cabinet
Center Section & Doors
•
Finish & Mount The Doors
Dimensions & Sources
Project of the Month • Build A Modern Hoosier Cabinet • Page 54 • December 1999
© 1999 American Woodworker
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American Woodworker: Project of the Month: Hoosier Cabinet
You’ll need a dado set for your tablesaw,
a router, router table, and bits (stile and
rail, round-over, and flush trim), a
doweling jig and a drill. A jointer and
planer are handy, but optional.
For materials, you need 40 board feet of
oak, one and one-half sheets of 3/4-in. A-
1 grade oak plywood, two sheets of 1/4-
in. A-1 grade oak fibercore plywood, and
15 board feet of 4/4 birch for drawer
sides and runners—not bad for such a
large piece. All the hardware, from the
porcelain enamel top to the “ant traps” is
available from companies that specialize
in the restoration of antique Hoosiers (see
Sources).
Your cost will be about $475
for lumber and $300 for the tambour
system and cabinet hardware. If you want
to dress up the interior, as we did, with
internal bins and canisters, you’ll spend
another $200.
Straight Grain Looks Best
Give a sense of order to the cabinet’s
structure by using straight-grained
material for all face, door and side frame
pieces. Cut straight-grained stock from
the edges of plain-sawn boards or buy rift-
sawn oak (about $50 extra). Either way,
it’s worth the effort.
FRAME AND PANEL
CONSTRUCTION
A reversible stile and rail cutter cuts
both ways. As a stile cutter it makes
a “profile” cut on long grain. As a rail
cutter it makes a matching “coped”
cut on the end grain. After routing,
the two parts fit neatly together in a
decorative version of a tongue and
groove joint. Coped cuts are made
with the workpiece face up, profile
cuts are made with it face down.
Changing from cope to profile
cutting means disassembling the
cutter, rearranging the guide bearing,
profile and slot cutting wings, and
reassembling.
Make the Doors and Cabinet
Sides First
It may seem odd to make doors before the
cabinets are done, but it’s a good idea.
The doors are the first thing you see, so
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American Woodworker: Project of the Month: Hoosier Cabinet
they should get the best-looking panels
(Photo
2).
Besides, they’re lipped doors
that overlay their openings, so an exact fit
isn’t critical. Cut all of the door and side
frame stiles and rails (A1 - A6 and B1 -
B9) at the same time. Use flat stock.
Bowed or twisted pieces will make your
life miserable.
Make these pieces into frames for the
doors and sides using stile and rail cutters
(see
Sources)
mounted in your router
table. A reversible cutter set (Fig.
A)
won’t break your budget ($40 to $85) and
making the change from one cut to the
other only takes a few minutes. Make
coped cuts (Photo
1),
then rearrange the
cutters for the profile cuts.
Assemble the routed frames and find
panels (C1 - C5). Finally, glue the parts
together into doors (Z1, Z2 and Z5) and
cabinet sides (D1 and L1).
MAKE COPE CUTS in the end-grain
of all of the rails first. A shop-made
sled holds them safely in position
while cutting. Glue a block of wood
with one squarely cut end on top of
a longer piece of 1/4-in. plywood.
Screw on a toggle clamp. The sled
assures a square cut and the block
acts as a backer, preventing blow-
out.
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American Woodworker: Project of the Month: Hoosier Cabinet
BE SELECTIVE when choosing
panels for the doors and cabinet
sides. Slide the frames around on
the plywood until you find
attractive panels. Don’t worry about
wasting a little plywood. Locate
panels for the upper doors first.
Then find panels for the lower door
and cabinet sides.
Previous Page Next Page
Hoosier Cabinet
•Getting
Started
•
The Lower Cabinet
The Upper Cabinet
•
Finish The Lower Cabinet
Center Section & Doors
•
Finish & Mount The Doors
Dimensions & Sources
Project of the Month • Build A Modern Hoosier Cabinet • December 1999
© 1999 American Woodworker
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/199912/main/page2.html (3 of 3)26/06/2006 15.12.08

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